Fibres and textiles

• Made from animal fleece
• Made of protein molecules
• Produce short fibre or staple with a crimp or kink which, with the scales on the fibre, traps air, creating warmth.
• The first step in making wool fabric is shearing it from sheep, then its quality is checked and it is prepared for spinning.
• May be soft or course depending on the sheep breed.
• Examples applications:
  • Coats, jumpers, suits, blankets, carpets and upholstery.
  • Grey faced Dartmoor wool is suitable for carpet and rug making, while Merino is suitable for fine knitted jumpers.
• ADVANTAGES: Warm, absorbent, breathable, durable, repels rain, hangs well and creases drop out.
• DISADVANTAGES: Dries slowly, susceptible to moth attack, can feel itchy, washes poorly, can shrink and heavy when wet.

• PROPERTIES: 

  Insulation & Temperature Regulation: The crimped fibres create pockets of air that trap heat, keeping you warm in the cold and helping you stay cool in the heat by reacting to body temperature changes. 

  Moisture Wicking & Absorption: Wool can absorb a significant amount of moisture vapour from the air and from the skin without feeling wet. 

  Resilience & Durability: The elastic, coiled structure of wool fibres allows them to spring back into shape, making wool garments resistant to wrinkles and durable over time. 

  Natural Flame Resistance: Wool fibres naturally resist burning and will smoulder rather than melt or support combustion, making it a safer material. 

  Odour & Dirt Resistance: The fibre’s natural protective outer layer helps repel dirt, and its ability to absorb and wick moisture inhibits bacterial growth and reduces odour. 

  Hypoallergenic & Healthy: Wool is a natural protein fibre (keratin) that causes fewer allergies in humans. 

  Breathability: Wool fibres allow moisture vapor to pass through them and evaporate, keeping the wearer dry and comfortable. 

  Sustainability: Wool is a 100% natural, renewable, and biodegradable resource. 

• 'Bolls', the fruit cotton plant's fruit are machine-harvested.
• Saw teeth remove waste from the seed pod and the resulting fibre is called lint.
• Cellulose makes the fibre strong, durable and absorbent.
• As the cotton fibres dry they form interlocking flat, twisted, ribbon-like shapes, ideal for spinning.
• Example applications:
  • Towels, denim, socks, underwear, T-shirts and bedding
  • Short fibres make bandages and insulation
• ADVANTAGES: Cool, absorbent, soft, resists abrasion, withstands frequent washing at high temperature, good drape, durable, does not stain easily, static and cling resistant, available in various weights, can be ironed at high temperatures and good colour retention.
• DISADVANTAGES: Creases easily, burns, shrinks and dries slowly.
• PROPERTIES: 

  Softness: Cotton fibres are naturally soft, providing a comfortable feel against the skin. 

  Breathability: Its natural hollow fibre structure allows for good air circulation, which helps regulate body temperature. 

  Hypoallergenic: Cotton is less likely to cause allergic reactions, making it a good choice for sensitive skin. 

  High Absorbency: Cotton fibres can hold a significant amount of water or sweat, 24–27 times their own weight. 

  Wicking: It efficiently wicks moisture away from the body, helping the wearer stay dry. 

  Slow Drying: While absorbent, cotton also holds onto moisture, causing it to take some time to dry after being wet. 

  Strength: Cotton fibres have good natural strength. 

  Stronger When Wet: Wet cotton fibres are significantly stronger than dry ones. 

  Durability: The fabric is generally durable and resistant to abrasion and wear. 

  Draping: Cotton has good draping qualities, allowing it to hang well on the body. 

  Dye Absorbency: It takes dye and prints very well, leading to vibrant colours. 

  Wrinkles Easily: Cotton is prone to wrinkling and requires ironing. 

  Shrinkage: It can shrink during the first few washes unless pre-treated by manufacturers. 

  Resistant to Static: Cotton does not conduct electricity well, so it is resistant to static electricity build-up. 

  Biodegradable: Being a natural fibre, cotton is biodegradable. 

  Insulation: Cotton fibres can trap air, providing a layer of insulation that helps retain warmth in cooler temperatures. 

•  

• Polyester is a synthetic fiber derived from coal, air, water, and petroleum. Polyester fibres are formed from a chemical reaction between an acid and alcohol.
• Simple chemical molecules (monomers - a molecule that can be bonded to similar molecules to form long chains) are joined to form polymers by polymerisation.
• The polymer chains are spun into a yarn.
• Example application:
  • Raincoats, fleece jackets, children's nightwear, medical textiles and working clothing.
• ADVANTAGES: Strong when wet or dry, dries quickly, resistant to abrasion, soft, hangs well, crease and stain resistant, easy care, can be recycled and resist bacteria.
• DISADVANTAGES: Damaged by acids, low warmth, poor absorbency, does not breathe and not environmentally friendly.
• PROPERTIES: 

  Strength and Durability: Polyester fibres are very strong, resisting tears, stretching, and abrasion, leading to long-lasting fabrics. 

  Wrinkle and Crease Resistance: Polyester naturally resists wrinkles and creases, and it maintains its shape well, reducing the need for frequent ironing. 

  Quick Drying and Moisture Resistance: As a hydrophobic fibre, polyester repels water and doesn't absorb much moisture, causing it to dry quickly. 

  Shape Retention: Polyester fabrics retain their original shape and are resistant to shrinking and stretching. 

  Colour Retention: Polyester takes dyes well, resulting in vibrant, long-lasting colours that resist fading over time. 

  Chemical Resistance: It shows good resistance to most chemicals, making it suitable for industrial applications. 

  Mold Resistance: Polyester is inherently resistant to mold and mildew, an advantage for outdoor use. 

  UV Resistance: Polyester fibres are resistant to degradation from ultraviolet (UV) radiation, making them good for outdoor use. 

  Lightweight: Despite its strength, polyester is a lightweight fibre, making it comfortable for apparel. 

  Downsides to consider:

  Stain Removal: Due to its hydrophobic nature, stains can be harder to remove from polyester fabrics. 

  Static and Pilling: Polyester can be prone to static and pilling over time. 

  Non-Biodegradable: Pure polyester is generally not biodegradable.

• Formed by polymerisation of at least 85% acrylonitrile or vinyl cyanide
• The double bond between the first two carbon atoms is broken and the molecules join in a chain.
• Example application:
  • Imitation wool knitwear, upholstery fabrics, sportswear, fleece jackets and blankets.
• Acrylic can either be wet or dry spun. They use solvents to dissolve the polymer and then solidify them for their spinning process.
• ADVANTAGES: Warm, dries quickly, good drape, durable, crease resistant and easy care.
• DISADVANTAGES: Poor absorbency, feels stiff and can irritate skin.
• PROPERTIES: 

  Wool-like Texture: Acrylic is soft and warm with a feel similar to wool, often used as a less expensive alternative or in blends with natural fibres. 

  Durable and Resilient: The fibres are resilient and resistant to wear and tear, helping garments and fabrics hold their shape well. 

  Lightweight and Warm: Acrylic is lightweight yet provides good insulation, making it suitable for cold-weather clothing. 

  Sunlight and Chemical Resistance: It resists fading from sunlight and is resistant to household chemicals and mildew. 

  Wrinkle and Shrink Resistant: Acrylic fabrics are less likely to wrinkle or shrink, maintaining a neat appearance. 

  Easy Care: Acrylic is generally easy to wash and care for, often being machine washable and quick-drying. 

  Breathability: Acrylic is not very breathable and can trap heat and moisture, making it less comfortable for some applications. 

  Static Electricity: It can generate static electricity, causing clinging. 

  Flammability: Acrylic is flammable and melts when exposed to high heat. 

  Pilling: Some acrylic fabrics can pill or fuzz easily, though low-pilling versions are available. 

  Hydrophobic: Like polyester, acrylic is hydrophobic, meaning it repels water.

• Weft knitting is the most common type of knitting, it is the process of making a fabric by forming a series of connected loops in a horizontal or filling-wise direction.
• It can be produced on both flat and circular knitting machines or by hand.

Uses:

• Tailored garments, like jackets, suits, or sheath dresses are made from weft knitting.
• Interlock knit stitch is wonderful for making T-shirts, turtlenecks, casual skirts, dresses and children's wear.
• Seamless hosiery, knitted in tubular form, is produced by circular knitting machines.
• Circular knitting is also used for the production of fabrics used in sports having high stretch ability and also dimensional stability.
• Knitted hats and scarves are used in the winter season are made through weft knitting.
• Industrially, metal wire is also knitted into a metal fabric for a wide range of uses including the filter material in cafeterias, catalytic converters for cars and many other uses.

Advantages

• Stretchy, comfortable, fast production

Disadvantages

• Ladders easily

PROPERTIES: 

High Extensibility and Elasticity: Weft knits possess high stretch, particularly in the width (course-wise) direction, providing flexibility and comfort that allows them to move with the body. 

Soft Handle and Comfort: The soft, smooth texture created by the loops contributes to a comfortable and pleasant feel against the skin. 

Flowing Drape: The loop structure gives weft knits a fluid drape, which is excellent for garments like dresses and skirts that require graceful movement. 

Breathability: Weft knits allow for good air circulation due to the open spaces between the yarn loops, contributing to their breathability. 

Wrinkle Resistance: The inherent stretch and recovery of knit fabrics make them naturally wrinkle-resistant. 

Runnability and Unravelling: A significant drawback is their tendency to snag, run and completely unravel if a yarn breaks, making them less durable than woven fabrics. 

Curling Edges: Many weft knits, especially single jersey, will curl at the edges, requiring specific handling or techniques to prevent.

• Warp knitting is the process of making a fabric with a machine by forming the loops in a vertical or warp-wise direction; the yarn is prepared as warp on beams with one or more yarns for each needle.
• The fabric has a flatter, closer, less elastic knit than weft knit and is very often run resistant.

Uses:

• Tricot knit a type of warp knitting is used in the making of light weight fabrics usually inner wear like panties, brassieres, camisoles, girdles, sleepwear, hook & eye tape, etc.
• In apparel warp knitting is used for making sportswear lining, track suits, leisure wear and safety reflective vests.
• In household warp knitting is used for making mattress stitch-in fabrics, furnishing, laundry bags, mosquito nets and aquarium fish nets.
• The inner linings and inner sole linings of sports and industrial safety shoes are made from warp knitting.
• Car cushion, head rest lining, sun shades and lining for motorbike helmets are being made from warp knitting.
• For industrial uses PVC/PU backing, production masks, caps and gloves (for the electronic industry) are also made from warp knitting.
• Fabrics for printing and advertising are also produced from warp knitting.
• The warp knitting process is also being used for the production of bio-textiles. For example, a warp knitted polyester cardiac support device has been created to attempt to limit the growth of diseased heart by being installed tightly around the heart.

Advantages

• Fairly stretchy, retains heat, does not unravel

Disadvantages

• Can lose shape, curls at edges

PROPERTIES:

Dimensional Stability: This is a hallmark of warp knits, meaning they maintain their original shape and size even when stretched or washed. 

Run Resistance: Unlike weft knits, warp knits are less prone to unravelling or spreading if a yarn breaks, making them more durable for heavy-duty applications. 

Controlled Stretch: Warp knits have a specific and measurable amount of stretch, which is crucial for applications like compression garments, shapewear, and medical devices. 

Smooth & Consistent Surface: The construction results in a flat, smooth and uniform surface, ideal for high-quality designs, prints and consistent textures. 

Breathability: Many warp-knitted fabrics are breathable, especially when designed with mesh structures, allowing for good airflow and moisture management. 

Versatility in Structure: Warp knitting can create a wide range of structures, including plain, mesh, spacer, and 3D fabrics, accommodating diverse design and functional needs. 

Durability: The tight, interlocking loop structure enhances abrasion resistance and reduces snagging and pilling, contributing to the fabric's longevity.